October 1, 2016. We spent the weekend in Nuremberg, a city that many of my friends absolutely adore. However, for me, it was the least interesting stop on our German journey. It’s fascinating how personal experiences can shape our perceptions—factors like weather, mood, and the activities we choose play such a big role in our final impressions.
That day was pretty gloomy, and we visited some heavy, emotional places. But the most unexpected source of discomfort for me was the city’s fountains—they’re just creepy! Even now, when I see photos of them, I feel uneasy. To those who love Nuremberg: have you seen these fountains?
Speaking of hospitality, Couchsurfing once again came through for us. Our Nuremberg hosts were fantastic and even lent us their bicycles to explore the city! Now, I’m not the biggest fan of cycling in cities because I often feel insecure, but I can ride fairly well. It was a blessing that it was Saturday and the streets were almost empty; otherwise, I might have been a danger to myself, drivers, and pedestrians alike.
Most of my knowledge about Nuremberg wasn’t rooted in its Third Reich history but rather in a board game. The game isn’t exactly colorful, but it did help me imagine a city full of half-timbered houses. My imagination met reality, and, well, reality was quite different! But that’s what makes travel so exciting, right?
Nuremberg was heavily bombed during the war, like many other German cities, but this one is special in a dark way. Hitler built the Nazi party rally grounds here, and if you’re familiar with this aspect of the city’s history, you can feel its weight on every street.
The city also has its brighter sides. One of the most fascinating figures in art, Albrecht Dürer, lived here. His engravings are renowned worldwide, and years later, I visited an exhibition of his masterpieces. The restored castle in Nuremberg is quite lovely too. We only visited the courtyard, but it was my favorite part of the city!
When it comes to food, one thing stood out, and it needs a bit of context. I’ve always loved McDonald’s food because, in Russia, it tastes so good. I could say I was addicted until I discovered that McDonald’s tastes different around the world. Sadly, German McDonald’s didn’t meet my expectations either. But back in 2016, I was excited to try the Nürnburger. It turned out to be just a patty with not-so-great sausages and bitter mustard. I didn’t like it at all. However, I do recommend trying the Nürnberger Rostbratwurst, literally “Nuremberg grilled sausage.” They’re just as delightful as Münchener Weisswurst!
We didn’t have enough time to see everything we wanted, but we made it a point to visit at least one church. We chose the Church of St. Lorenz, a magnificent Gothic structure that houses the second-largest pipe organ in Germany. It’s also one of the most prominent churches of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Bavaria.
Our main destination, though, was the Nazi Party Rally Grounds. This significant site hosted six Nazi party rallies between 1933 and 1938. Today, the Congress Hall houses the Documentation Center, a museum dedicated to the history of the Third Reich.
The museum features rooms filled with photos and rare artifacts, like a personal Hitlers book Mein Kampf. There aren’t many artifacts, but the depth of information on every aspect of the Third Reich is overwhelming. They offer audio guides in German, English, Russian, and other languages. I was surprised to see not just young people but also many elderly Germans visiting. I can’t imagine my grandparents visiting such a place; they would probably prefer to avoid it.
There’s a palpable energy in some places, and while it’s not as heavy as a concentration camp, you can feel the history here. It’s the heart of the Nazi party’s power—not so much about pain, but about the immense energy of the past.
As a Russian who grew up hearing countless family stories about the war, including tales of relatives who were killed (and even saved) by German soldiers, it was both fascinating and important to see everything from the inside. It’s hard to explain the significance of such a place to someone who hasn’t felt a personal connection to that period. But even I can’t fully grasp the weight of it all. Visiting the Rally Grounds was an incredible experience, one I don’t regret. In fact, it often comes to mind more than many other places I’ve visited.
I never thought I’d consider returning to Nuremberg, but now I know there’s plenty more to discover and, hopefully, more positive experiences to be had.
